I WANT A HEALTHY LAWN!

• FEED YOUR LAWN

Top dress with an organic lawn food. Avoid fertilizers with soluble Nitrogen sources, because overfert

ilized lawns produce rapid leaf growth at the expense of roots. Not only does require you to mow more often, but it also

makes the lawn more susceptible to drought damage, because roots are shallow.

• AERATE LAWNS ONLY IF…

Compacted soil reduces the circulation of air, nutrients and water, and impedes the growth of deep root systems. Aerate lawns only if the soil has become compacted, which usually only happens in areas with heavy foot traffic.

• LEAVING GRASS CLIPPINGS

Leave grass clippings “grasscycling” on the lawn after you mow instead of raking them. You save time and the nutrients in the clippings provide organic matter and from 15 to 40% of your lawn’s nitrogen needs. The clippings also provide a mulch that protects the grass roots, and reduces evaporation and the need for water.

• DETHATCH OR NOT DETHATCH

Only dethatch is thatch is thicker than 1-2 cm (or about 1 inch). Thatch is a layer of undecomposed grass leaves, and other organic materials intermingled with a layer of dead and living roots and stems. A one to two cm deep layer of thatch is beneficial for the lawn, it mulches the soil, reduces water loss, provides organic matter and protect grass from compaction by foot traffic.

In a healthy lawn, earthworms and soil micro-organisms decompose thatch as fast as it accumulates. Thatch only becomes a problem if it builds up into a thick and compacted mat that prevents water and nutrients from reaching grass roots. It is a myth that thatch is caused by leaving grass clippings on the lawn.

• LOVING THE MOSS!

Although you can try planting turf grasses more suited to shady areas, turf experts say that wherever moss is thriving, it is a sign that conditions are just not suitable for lawn grass to grow well. Moss loves rainy days, shade and never needs mowing!.

*Taken from: A resident’s guide to natural yard care for the Lower Mainland. GVRD.